Ekiben: My Favourite Part of a Shinkansen Journey

When I think of a Shinkansen trip, I think of ekiben. Yes, the train is fast and the view is lovely, but I also look forward to choosing what I’m going to eat.

Plenty of Japanese passengers do the same. You’ll see someone settling in with a carefully chosen lunch, someone opening a bag of snacks, and occasionally someone enjoying a beer with their bento. Once I’ve found my seat and opened the little tray table, the trip feels like it has properly begun.

Featured image caption: An ekiben, a window seat and nowhere else you need to be for a while.

So, what exactly is ekiben?

Ekiben combines eki (station) and bento (a boxed meal). You buy it at or around a railway station to take on your journey. Some contain familiar favourites like rice, grilled fish and vegetables. Others are built around a local speciality, so choosing lunch can give you a little taste of the place you’re leaving—or the place you’re heading to.

And choosing is half the fun. I can spend far longer than necessary looking at the boxes, changing my mind, then spotting one more just as I’m about to pay. At Tokyo Station’s Ekibenya Matsuri⁠, for example, the selection draws on regional ekiben from across Japan.

Can you eat ekiben on the Shinkansen?

Yes. You can bring an ekiben on board and eat it at your seat. The Shinkansen runs smoothly enough that eating from the tray table is generally comfortable, even while the train is travelling at speed.

I’d buy my meal before boarding, especially if I had my heart set on a particular one. Once seated, I wait until I’m settled, open everything carefully and keep the packaging together so it’s easy to tidy up afterwards. If you’re having a drink with lunch, that’s something you may see other passengers doing too. A little consideration for the people sitting nearby makes the meal more pleasant for everyone.

Six ekiben to look out for

These are the kinds of ekiben that make me want to arrive at the station early. Some are famous for what’s inside; others have a box you’ll remember long after you’ve finished eating. Availability can change, so have a look at the station rather than counting on finding one particular bento.

Yokohama, Kanagawa — Yokohama Station

Kiyoken Shiumai Bento

A Yokohama classic with shiumai dumplings, rice and plenty of little side dishes. Kiyoken has several shops around Yokohama Station. Kiyoken shops⁠

Tokyo — Tokyo Station

Chicken Bento

Chicken rice and fried chicken: simple, comforting and easy to enjoy on the train. If you want to browse first, Tokyo Station’s Ekibenya Matsuri⁠ has a large selection. JR East Cross Station⁠

Sendai, Miyagi — Sendai Station

Gyūtan Bento

Sendai is known for beef tongue, and a gyūtan bento lets you try it with rice on your journey. Kobayashi makes a version with a self-heating container—check the instructions before opening it. Kobayashi⁠

Toyama — Toyama Station

Minamoto Masu no Sushi

Pressed trout sushi is one of Toyama’s best-known local foods. Minamoto lists a shop by Toyama Station’s central ticket gates. Minamoto shops⁠

Karuizawa, Nagano — Karuizawa Station

Oginoya Tōge no Kamameshi

A meal served in a little pot is hard to walk past. Oginoya sells it at Karuizawa Station when stock arrives; it may sell out. Oginoya shops⁠

Kobe, Hyōgo — Shin-Kobe Station

Awajiya Hipparidako Meshi

Octopus rice in a distinctive ceramic pot. The container is part of the appeal, though you’ll need room in your bag if you decide to keep it. Awajiya has a shop at Shin-Kobe Station. Awajiya⁠

Why it tastes even better on the train

Of course, you can buy a perfectly good bento at a convenience store or supermarket. But an ekiben is something I go looking for at the station. I want to see the regional choices, read what’s inside and spend a few minutes deciding which one will come on the train with me.

Then the Shinkansen pulls away. I open the tray table, take the lid off my bento and finally get to eat the meal I’ve been thinking about since I bought it. Maybe I’m hungry, or maybe it’s because I’m on my way somewhere. Either way, I’m convinced ekiben tastes especially good on the train.

If you have a Shinkansen journey coming up, leave yourself a little time before departure to choose one. You might find yourself looking forward to lunch just as much as the destination.

Why it tastes even better on the train

Of course, you can buy a perfectly good bento at a convenience store or supermarket. But an ekiben is something I go looking for at the station. I want to see the regional choices, read what’s inside and spend a few minutes deciding which one will come on the train with me.

Then the Shinkansen pulls away. I open the tray table, take the lid off my bento and finally get to eat the meal I’ve been thinking about since I bought it. Maybe I’m hungry, or maybe it’s because I’m on my way somewhere. Either way, I’m convinced ekiben tastes especially good on the train.

If you have a Shinkansen journey coming up, leave yourself a little time before departure to choose one. You might find yourself looking forward to lunch just as much as the destination.